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This board
was really graceful and beautiful to look at, and in performance so so
good that officials of the Annual surfboard Paddling Championship immediately.
For Classic surf-riders,
the risk is greatest at take-off, complicated by a radical change
in position from prone to standing.
XXXX
Experiments in stand-up
surfing led to the development to two techniques, the early adoption of
the
Stance and a later refinement, the Spring.
propulsion –
when not riding the wave, the craft is either physically powered by the
rider/s (generally – ‘paddling’) or with an outside power source.
The Polynesians arrived in Hawaii with
an unequalled maritime knowledge and skills to the finest surfing location
on the planet.
extensions
– small appendages designed to improve body surfing performance,
usually handboards and/or flippers (US – swim fins).
Other features of
Modern surfing include a significant increase in the angle that a board
can transverse the wave face.
Since personal surf-craft
cannot normally paddle faster than wave speed, this is a critical calculation.
"Strange as
it may seem, three old-style Hawaiian surfboards of huge dimensions and
weight have hung on the walls of the Bishop Museum in Honolulu for twenty
years or more without anyone doing more than wonder how in the world these
great boards were used, as they were too heavy and long to be practicable.
This possibly
equates with the state of surf-riding expertise around Polynesian
settlement of the Hawaiian Islands, circa 400 - 600 C.
usually for
pleasure - mostly surf-riding is essentially for pleasure, but
some craft and techniques have special rescue, competitive or commercial
application.
Since we have no
historical data on Ancient surf-riding performance, any comments on the
early developments of surf-riding technique must be purely speculative.
In general surf-riding
activity, most time is devoted to paddling relative to the time actually
spent riding the wave.
Nat Young personally interviewed Tom Blake
for his recollections of this period, published in 1983's The
History of Surfing , and although the length varies from Blake's
1935 notes, the account is detailed.
One would expect that successful surfboard
construction would require an intial felling and rough shaping into a billet,
followed by an extended curing period.
Also the ancient
Hawaiians, adapt at "body surfing," swam the crawl stroke as part of the
sport; therefore, the origin of the so-called new crawl swimming stroke
dates back to antiquity.
The
earliest recognition of the concept of surf-riding in a formal definition
is probably is in the Hawaiian language.
In California the exposure was more direct
- George Freeth, considered one of the top riders, was commissioned to
demonstate surfriding as a promotion for a land sale at Renaldo Beach in
1907.
As previously noted,
surfcraft design must always considered relative to the available materials
and construction techniques.
1964 Hawaiian
Gun by Dick Brewer : Hobie Surfboards
1966 Sam by Nat Young : Gordon Woods Surfboards 1966 da Cat by Mickey Dora : Greg Noll Surfboards.
of riding
–
not white water! Put in Blake Finney references re 'sliding' XXX
hydrous–
containing water.
Surfcraft design
must always considered relative to the available materials and construction
techniques.
Getting out is a
variable function of the surf conditions and the rider’s skill, and some
craft are designed to excel at this aspect, particularly those focused
on rescue, competitive racing or commercial applications.
Technically, a board
for successful knee riding must probably be at least fourteen inches wide
for an adult rider.
Personal observation
(no empicial data) indicates a ratio of approximately 60/40 in favour of
the Natural stance surf-riders.
In the Modern era
(circa 1950 - 1956), surfboard stability and performance was significantly
enhanced with the addition of a structual extension - the fin.
Stance is the defining
characteristic of all the derivative board sports, (Skimboard?), Skateboard,
Snowboard, Sailboard, Wakeboard and Kiteboard ; that trace their genesis
to Classical surf-riding.
XXX With the
arrival in Hawaii, surf-riding development of suitable surf skills and
the production of suitable boards, standing became a common riding position.
without craft
– body surfing, incorporating arm and leg power, occasionally utilizing
body extensions.
"The crawl
kick was also used in conjunction with the short three-foot surfboards
used at Waikiki beach around the 1903 period.
Stand-up surfing
may have already been a recognised skill by Traditional surf-riders the
time of Hawaiian settlement, but the subsequent developments led to a period
where riding in the standing position was the dominant feature, Classic
surf-riding.
This may have been due to a heirachical social
structure, but it would also to restrict access to certain surfing locations
and to the largest available trees.
however a combination of drilled holes
and extended curing made a noticable difference in weight
"This surfboard
was sixteen feet long and weight 120 pounds.
There are no contemporary accounts of how
the boards were ridden, but it is most likely that the design was specifically
for riding large swells on outside reefs, rather than on breaking or curling
waves.
For stand-up surf-riders,
the take-off is further complicated by the radical change in position from
prone to standing.
See Appendix B :
Ancient Surf Board Construction
As a communal activity, there would a 'communal
quiver' of prone boards that would allow for their performance to be critically
assessed by different riders.
By 1900, the traditional surfboard woods
had virtually disappeared and any new boards were built from imported timbers.
This report has been consistantly quoted
by surfing historians , see Blake (1935), Finney (1964),?
The report suggests further consideration.
1967 Surfboard La Jolla
Twin-Pin Twin Fin
1967 Pipeliner by Richard Brewer : Bing Surfboards.
"In the later part of 1929, after
three years of experimenting, I introduced at Waikiki a new type
of surfboard;.
With a progression in riding performance
and construction techniques, and critically assessment by community feedback,
there were significant incentives to build wider boards.
, surfing, design, surfboards, Australia, history
Ford enthusuiastically
supported the traditional skills of surfboard riding and paddling outrigger
canoes, and was Jack London's instructor.
For some craft the
riding position is determined by the propulsion method, others allow for
variations in the riding position.
Historically, it
is possible that body surfing and Polynesian swimming were developed from
board surfing.
Tom Blake, citing
conversations with Duke Kahanamoku, confirms that the 'Crawl' style was
an integral part of successful body surfing technique and that it predates
recorded history, Hawaiian
Surfboard (1935), page 43.
Given that Blake
is descibing riding boards without fins, this 'preference' would appear
to require considerable skill and was probably only empolyed by experienced
riders.
For the surf-rider,
Hawaii (specifically at Waikiki and Hilo) provided surfing conditions that
were not merely ideal, but supreme.
Since the 1950’s
many prone riders use extensions (flippers) to increase paddle power and
riding control.
Post-Modern
surf-riding, 1967 - adjustment of all the variables : template,
length, width, tails, fins, rails, rocker, bottom contour, flyers,
and the leg rope.
These are paddles
(canoes, surfskis, kayaks), oars (surfboats, dorys) or an motorised power
source.
Details of wave size, wave shape, stance and/or manouvres
are, as would be expected, overlooked by most non-surfing observers.
On occasion, drop-knee
was used by Traditional surf-riders and its successful application was
probably considered skillfull.
National Geograghic Magazine May
1935 Volume 47 Number 5 page 597
"I too wondered
about these boards in the museum, wondered so much that in 1926 I built
a duplicate of them as an experiment, my object being to find not a better
board, but to find a faster board to use in the annual and popular surfboard
paddling races held in California each summer.
Surfing's international status was boosted
in October 1907 with publication in A Woman's Home Companion
(of "A Royal Sport : Surfing at Waikiki" by Jack London.
Modern surfing experience would suggest
that high performance surfing is limited more by skill than equipment.
pods for primates
Although a specific
riding position itself, the Drop-knee is an essentially a transition positon
that allows easy adjustment from kneeling to either the standing
or sitting positions.
To encourage young surfer's, entry fees
were set at a minimum and boards were supplied for use or purchase ($2.
It is a distinct probablity that ancient surfers rode large hollow waves
deep in the curl - certainly prone, and on occassions standing.
The spring became
a standard technique of Modern surf-riding, circa 1950 with
the universal adoption of the light weight Malibu board and it's extension
- the fin (or skeg).
Surfskis, from the
1930's, improved control by the use of footstraps and in circa 1969, Merv
Larson in California added a seat belt to the wave-ski.
Although usually
for pleasure, efficient body surfing technique was a valuable skill for
retrieving lost surfcraft in the era preceding the general adoption of
the leg rope (US – surf leash), circa 1977.
The formation of the Outrigger Canoe
Club encouraged other surfing clubs, most noteably the Hui Nui whose members
included the Kahanamoku Brothers.
By the end of the 20th century, surf-riding
and it's derivative board sports had global significance.
Stance is indicated
by most of the earliest recognised images that attempt to illustrate surf-riding.
Regular success at
riding in the kneeling position, would confirm the benefits of wider boards
and tentative attempts at standing could have encouraged the production
of longer boards and further increases in width.
After the wood had fully dried he
covered the top and bottom surfaces with a thin layer of wood, sealing
the holes.
Most
early illustrations of surfing simply fail to represent any understanding
of the mechanics of wave riding.
Wave riding at this
fundamental level of technique in this formulative period may be
descibed as Primitive surf-riding.
'Resolution'
midshipman George Gilbert (circa 1788), in the first report of Hawiian
surfboard dimensions gave the estimation of 6ft x 16'' with a 9'' tail
and 4 1/2'' thick.
1967 Vee Bottom by Midget Farrelly :
Farrelly Surfboards
1967 Vee Bottom Gun by Bob McTavish : Keyo Surfboards
1968 Tracker by Bob McTavish : Morey-Pope Surfboards
1967 Little Red by Ted Spencer : Shane Surfboards
1968 Double-Ender by Wayne Lynch : John Arnold Surfboards home.
Nat
History page 49
The second edition of History of Surfing
(1994) is dedicated to Tom Blake who died May 5, 1994, aged 92.
quiver - a collection of surfcraft,
usually of one surf-rider, designed to be ridden in a range of surf-riding
conditions.
On occasion, sitting
was used by Traditional surf-riders and for Classic surf-riders its successful
application is considered skillfull.
surfresearch
For successful prone
riding , the minimum board width probably has to be at least six inches
(hand-width) and the board shorter than body length for the effective use
of arm and leg power.
riding positions
– there are five basic riding positions : Prone, Kneeling, Drop-knee,
Sitting and Standing.
The earliest report of surfboard construction
describes the process as having a cultural/religious significance, see
Thrum (1896).
Unihabited for X0000 million
years, the Hawiian Islands had produced a massive store of surfboard building
materials - trees large enough to build sixty foot canoes.
The board's paddling performance was demonstrated
in 1928 when, after a slow start, Tom Blake emphatically won the 880 yards
paddling race at the Pacific Coast Surfing Contest, Balboa, California.
With the development of an adult surfing
culture, prone boards became essential in acquiring basic surf skills.
"Duke Kahanomoku
calls attention to the fact that to catch a wave for "body surfing," in
the true Hawaiian manner, it is necessary to swim before the breaker using
the modern crawl stroke, with a flutter kick.
Following the Primitive
era, the Traditional surf-riding period is characterised
by successfully riding in the kneeling position, with the option
to vary the riding position depending on skill and the wave conditions.
the act
of riding a hydrous wave, often utilizing a variety of craft, employing
a variety of methods of propulsion and riding positions, usually for pleasure.
It is even possible
that the first experiments at stand-up surfing were attempted as early
as 2000 B.
A wider board was also more stable, and
would encourage future experimentation in alternative riding positions.
For surfing, the crucial factors were the massive decline in population
(almost 80% between 1778 and 1900) and the ravaging of the native forests
by timber merhants.
The surfmen
rise to their feet the instant the boards have slid down the advancing
slope, clear of the foaming break which is about to curl over them.
The alternative possibility
(McInnes, in conversation, 2001), that surf-riding was an
extension from canoe surfing, seems unlikely given the use of bladed paddles,
the seated riding position and considerable differences in riding
technique and skills.
Prone boards were
undoubtedly an essential evolutionary step in the development of surf-riding
and their use possibly pre-dates body surfing.
Surfing was limited to a very small number
of native Hawaiians, but increasingly some Europeans became board riding
enthusiasts.
The biggest determining
factor in surfing performance appears to be the rider’s skill, and although
‘designed’ to be ridden prone, the earliest experiments at stand up surfing
were probably on what contemporary surf-riders would recognise as ‘prone
or knee boards'.
This risk was was
vitually eliminated with the general adoption of the leg rope (US – surf
leash), circa 1977.
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